Email to the folks at home.

Sunday 16 April

Mingalaba everyone,

I decided this was the easiest, quickest and probably the cheapest way of keeping in touch with you all. Plus I might not get the opportunity again. We are staying at The Strand in Yangon and as an hotel it is luxury personified. And it has email capabilities which I don't know if I'll find again.

Myanmar is a wonderful place to be with its beautiful, friendly people and fascinating scenery. I feel very much at home, as a matter of fact I feel like I've come home. Marg and I had a wonderful three days travelling to the War Graves and back. Our guide, Moe, is a wonderful chap, very knowledgeable and highly personable. He made the trip an experience to be cherished, sharing himself and his country with us.

The trip took about 8 hours, we had to go north, north east to go south and of course, the reverse on the way back.. The roads are not good, almost single lane most of the way. Myanmar drives on the wrong side of the road but our 17 year old Toyota Corolla was a right hand drive so for some reason driving on the wrong side of the road didn't worry me.  I had complete faith in our driver who was very quiet, a good driver and always ready to help two little old ladies. 

Rafferty's Rules prevail but fortunately everyone, pedestrians, cars, trucks, buses, vespers, motorbikes, trishaws, bikes, oxen drawn carts, horse drawn carts, oxen, horses, dogs, pigs and chooks all know the Rules. If they didn't respond to one beep on the horn (which they mostly did) our driver gave them a sharp beep to remind them. As you can imagine we didn't break the speed limit (don't know what it is) our average speed was about 30 - 40 miles an hour. 

As well as the condition of the roads and the various peoples and animals we shared the road with it is the time of the Water Festival, the main festival of the Buddist calendar - end of one year, the beginning of another, and all that means from a religious, personal and community perspective. The Water Festival is five days of religious activities and just plain fun. The main form of fun is water throwing and anything goes from a little sprinkle to a pressure hose and everything in between. Everyone takes part, from the young to the old and everyone, dripping wet, has an absolute ball. The feelings of happiness, fun, mischief, co-operation and community is palpable and infectious. 

As much of the water throwing is carried out from the road side and the groups of water throwers can be rather large, the traffic slows down to a crawl mostly to be involved in the festivities but also for the safety of the many dancing water throwers. We had the windows up, naturally, as the car had aircon, so we were safe but the car experienced many forms of water projectiles.

In Mawlamyine we stayed at the Ngwe Moe Hotel, which except for the cold shower, was more than adequate. After dinner we went to bed and even though there was a pandal (a kind of theatre) in full swing with singing and dancing and of course, water throwing over the road, I was in bed and asleep by 8 o'clock. The noise from the pandal and the roar of vesper engines didn't keep me awake, instead it lulled me to sleep. 

Would you believe it, Jamie, Moe has a copy of the book you got for us on the Railway and offered it to me to read! As I have a copy, thanks to you, Margaret borrowed it and read it before we went to the cemetery.

Friday morning we left our hotel and drove to Thanphuyzyat and the War Graves. The cemetery is located a little way out of town and just off the main road. Moe found the key man and he let us in. Although the noise of traffic and festivities was quite loud outside, inside the cemetery it was quiet and peaceful. It's not a large cemetery but is well set out and simplistic, nothing ostentatious. Shrubs and flowers grow between each grave, many of which are Australian. On one side of Dad's grave is a pink correa but I'm not sure what's on the other side. The whole area is well maintained and has a special feel to it.

Marg, Moe, the key man and another couple of locals helped me find Dad's grave and then left me alone. Standing in front of the grave was an experience I won't forget in a hurry. My first thought was "You do exist! You are real!" and the tears began to flow. I felt a great weight left from my shoulders and I smiled through my tears. I stayed for a bit thinking, different thoughts to any I had anticipated. I placed Jamie's mementoes by the grave and wandered off to have a bit of a look around and to chat with the people who not only shared the moment with me but who told me they felt privileged to do so. 

Later I went back to the grave side, said my good-byes, signed the visitors book and we left to follow the revellers to Kyaihkami Beach and its pagoda. Margaret took lots of photos which I will share with you all when I return. And Barbara, you will be able to experience, vicariously, some of what I experienced.

At the beach we joined the festivities, were sprinkled with water, gently, and made to feel very welcome. Margaret, Moe and I shared a couple of beers and some nuts and chatted away, like three very good friends, enjoying each others company and being part of the festivities. On the way back to Mawlamyine we stopped to see an engine that is on part the actual railway. On either side of the railway lines in front of the engine there are models of men in various poses depicting those who worked on the railway. This area is about to be upgraded and the figures restored but even though it is badly in need of some TLC it is still a moving experience seeing the actual railway lines, the engine and the figures.

Lunch at a local tea house was a somewhat scary experience. All travellers take care with where they eat and what they eat and this establishment definitely did not pass the criteria. But, I'm pleased to say I rather enjoyed the experience and felt no after effects and the meal itself wasn't so bad. The people were very friendly and made us feel very welcome.

The trip back to Yanyon was, once again, rather slow but was made enjoyable by the water throwers, the sights and sounds of Myanmar and the company. When we arrived back at The Strand we were welcomed like old friends and made to feel like part of the hotel's family. After a most welcome shower and the washing of the hair (it was rather hot down south) we met the rest of the group for pre-dinner drinks followed by the welcome dinner. A good night was had by all, catching up on our individual experiences.

This morning everyone else, including Margaret, set out on a walk around the city, to see the Reclining Buddhah, have lunch and have water thrown over them again. I opted not to go, didn't want to get wet and catch a cold this early in the tour. So I've spent my time keeping you all up to date with my travels - good little Vegemite that I am. This afternoon I will join the group, go to the Shwedagon Pagoda which is the most important pagoda in Myanmar, have dinner somewhere in Yangon before returning to my magnificent room and my most comfy bed.. 

it's hard to believe, but the writing of this email has taken me to just about lunchtime. The group will be back soon and then I'll get to share their experiences before we all set out again. The time Margaret, Moe and I shared down south will, I'm sure, be the highlight of our trip - a most memorable three day! 

Now I've finished writing to you all, I can go back to my room and catch up on my diary, transfer my photos to my Notebook, save everything to my flash drive and even burn .it to CD, if I have time. There you go, Don, I'm being a good little Mimbarrie.

Love and ciao for now, from
Helen in Myanmar.